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“That,” says Steele, “was definitely a way of differentiating [ grande couture ] from the simultaneous rise of confection, the first round of ready-to-wear clothing, sold in department stores in France… He claimed that [ haute couture ] was an art form and that he was an artist.” Today haute couture is often used as a catchall term for luxury clothing in general, but in France – and in fashion circles generally – it’s an appellation reserved only for designers who meet a rigorous set of criteria

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